Ode to Pauline LakiPioneer between cultures

Photo by Pauline Laki. Source archive Ellen van Kooten
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In the beating heart of Amsterdam, where the canals whisper of old stories and the city breathes the scents of the world, I see her standing in her kitchen - Pauline Laki. The first Indonesian hospitality entrepreneur, a woman who, like this city, knew how to blur boundaries and build bridges between worlds. As an Indonesian refugee from the former Netherlands _Indian she came to the Netherlands in 1949 and within 15 years managed to establish her first restaurant.
Here Amsterdam - for the first time with an Indonesian woman who was the entrepreneur - tasted the authentic flavors of the Indonesian archipelago, not as a distant memory of the colonial past, but as a vibrant, warm reality. Her rice tables were renowned and many famous people like Ron Brandsteder and Patty Brad came to eat.
When I think of Amsterdam, I think of freedom, of diversity, of guts. Pauline embodies all that. Her Indonesian restaurant was not just a place to eat, it was a meeting place where stories about the connection between the Netherlands and Indonesia & Indian people (Indos & Indonesians) were shared.
“When I think of Amsterdam, I think of freedom, of diversity, of guts. Pauline embodies all of that.”
Her contribution to the city is undeniable. Pauline not only gave Amsterdam the smell of cloves and coconut milk, but was also a place where Indian colleagues stopped by daily for a cup of Tubruk. A safe place. In her kitchen, cultures melted together and walls were broken down - exactly what Amsterdam is great at. She stood for hospitality, entrepreneurship and the power of cultural exchange. Values this city has upheld for centuries.
What makes her so typically Amsterdam? Her daring. Her ability to row against the tide and choose her own path. Her creativity, hard work but also the ability to excel. In this at a time when women, let alone women of color, barely had a place in the entrepreneurial landscape, she claimed her space. Not once but twice; first in Amsterdam East (Indian eatery, Sumatrastraat) and then in Amsterdam South (Restaurant Djanoko, Van Baerlestraat). A household name in the 70s - 90s. A strong woman, certainly not modest and above all determined. As befits a true Amsterdammer.
“Pauline Laki deserves this tribute. Because as an Indonesian, she gave Amsterdam not only a tastier, but also a richer heart.”

Buffet. Photo source archive Ellen van Kooten
Pauline inspires me because she shows how identity is not a limitation, but a strength. She made her roots her source of strength and created a place where people came not only to eat, but also to feel at home. In her story, I recognize my own search for balance between cultures, and her courage encourages me to take up space, regardless of obstacles.
Her spirit lives on in every Amsterdam toko, in every rice table shared between friends, and in every Indian story that makes the city richer. Yet her name seems to be disappearing along with 1st and 2nd generation Indos. That's why I want to put her in the spotlight. Because pioneers like Pauline Laki should not be forgotten. Because they helped shape the fabric of our city. And because her story deserves to be told, over and over again.
Pauline Laki deserves this tribute. Because as an Indonesian, she gave Amsterdam not only a more tasteful, but also a richer heart. Her legacy is a reminder of the power of diversity and the magic of connection. In her spirit, Amsterdam continues to renew itself - colorful, open and free.
Ellen van Kooten

Pauline in later life with staff at Djanoko Restaurant. Source archive Ellen van Kooten
About
Ode by Koot to Pauline Laki.
She is the first Indonesian restaurant owner, a woman who, like this city, managed to blur boundaries and build bridges between worlds. An Indonesian refugee from the former Netherlands-Indies, she came to the Netherlands in 1949 and managed to establish her first restaurant within 15 years. Here Amsterdam - for the first time with an Indonesian woman who was the
entrepreneur - the authentic flavors of the Indonesian archipelago, not as a distant memory of the colonial past, but as a vibrant, warm reality. Her rice tables were renowned and many famous people like Ron Brandsteder and Patty Brad came to eat often. When I think of Amsterdam, I think of freedom, of diversity, of guts. Pauline embodies all of that. Her Indonesian restaurant was not just a place to eat, it was a meeting place where stories about the connection between the Netherlands and Indonesia & Indian people (Indos & Indonesians) were shared.

Pauline Laki
First Indonesian hospitality entrepreneur.